It’s been a little over two months since I first left home. Crazy, because in my mind it feels like two years (well, not actually that long, but time works in weird ways). In that time, I’ve traveled with five friends, visited four countries, and sent you all a few updates—mostly featuring specific stories or general themes that have occurred along the way. But these probably haven’t provided the best snapshot of South America. So, now that I’m fully acclimatized to my surroundings at 8+ weeks in, here’s a round-up of all the pros and cons that this amazing continent has to offer:

1: Transportation

Best: Bus travel

Not going to lie, I was pretty scared about getting on South American buses based on some stories I read on the Internet. And true, some local buses have been pretty hectic. In Salento, I sat next to a man carrying a chicken. In Santa Marta, I was squished like a sardine in the most overpacked aisle, all while basically hanging out of an open door. But for long-haul trips, buses here have been downright wonderful. Think: TVs for each passenger, USB charging ports, fully reclinable seats, snacks and coffee included for some rides—all for $25 or less. Bolt Bus, take note.

Worst: Protest culture

Every country has its issues (whaddup, USA!), and South America is no exception. Protests against mining projects, corruption, and other problems are commonplace. Unfortunately, instead of taking place outside of town halls, this unrest occurs in the streets—aka the lone roads that connect one major city to another. Almost every time I’ve been on a bus, there’s been a protest that has required me to either wait hours or get out on the side of a highway with all my stuff and walk the last 25 minutes to my destination (one time this happened in the cold and dark at 6 AM). Whether it’s with rocks, pipes, or people, the citizens of South American countries love to get their point across by forming traffic blockades. And while I truly respect the concept of making your voice heard, the reality is it’s been a real pain in the ass.

2: Food

Best: Street eats and markets

One of the best meals of my entire trip was an empanada I bought from a random guy on a beach in Colombia. In Ecuador and Peru, my friend Nick and I jumped from market to market, indulging in some of the freshest juices made to order (and a particularly mouthwatering lunch of ceviche and trout, too). In Bolivia, I’ve been subsisting almost entirely on salteñas, a sort of cousin of the empanada, which has a liquid-y broth/sauce inside and which I mostly purchase from street vendors. So, forget restaurants. Many of the best bites can be found stand-side on the next corner.

Worst: Lack of vegetables

I love my pizza, pasta, and bagels. But believe it or not, Carbo Caroline has a limit. After weeks of exclusively eating rice, potatoes, and meat, my body is seriously deprived of nutrients. Where have all the vegetables gone?!?! I’ve seen them sold in markets. But they’re almost never included on menus. Minus avocados and corn, the vegetable is almost non-existent in the Southern Hemisphere. SEND ME A SALAD ASAP.

3: Economy

Best: Prices

After my friend Maxine left Cusco, she sent me a text that pretty much summed it up: “I just paid $18 for a beer in the Miami airport! Take me back to Peru … “. In Colombia, $18 bought me a delicious, world-class meal of pork belly served over live coals in a beautiful, verdant restaurant. In Bolivia, $18 is the equivalent of three nights in 8.0- or higher-rated hostels. In New York, I can spend over $100 in a night and can barely buy lunch for less than $15. In South America, my dollar feels like gold. (Which is a good thing, because my budget is lasting longer than I thought!).

Worst: Cash

My friend El and I discovered that South America was still very much a cash-based society in Santa Marta, Colombia. We somehow happened to visit a mall on what was essentially Colombia’s Black Friday. There, we waited more than 20 minutes in line for an ATM, only to have it run out of cash. The lesson? Down here, cash is king. I’m constantly worried about getting more and not having small enough bills (I was once denied an empanada that cost five soles in Cusco because I tried to pay with a 20). Yes, it sucks that I can’t earn points. But what sucks more? The feeling of security that comes with having a card in the US doesn’t exist here.

4: Infrastructure

Best: Malls

In the US, the mall is dying. Amazon is sucking the lifeblood from them. But in South America, malls are very much alive and well. Strange as it sounds, I’ve spent a lot of time in malls down here … partially because I’ve had to get my phone fixed so many times (I’mmmmm janky!); partially because when I was traveling with Nick, we went to tons of sports stores to track down soccer jerseys; partially because I’ve desperately been on the hunt for a new pair of sneakers that don’t have a hole in them (more jank). But also because the malls down here are SO nice. They feel new, clean, and house the brands I miss (hello, H&M). They offer a nice respite from the often overwhelming mercados. And their fixed prices mean that I get a descanso from haggling with street vendors (which can be exhausting). As someone who grew up shopping and working in malls, visiting them in South America is nostalgic, like visiting a little slice of home.

Worst: Bathrooms

So, I’ve actually seen worse bathrooms (hey, Morocco), but I needed something for this category … and while the washroom experience down here has been totally tolerable, there still is much left to be desired. I miss always having consistently hot water and high pressure. I miss being able to flush toilet paper (what a luxury!). I miss always having base and curtain that separates the shower from the rest of the bathroom (in some hostels I’ve stayed in, the water just goes everywhere … why?!). I can’t believe I’m actually saying this, but I miss my grungy New York apartment bathroom—with the rust on the ceiling and wonky faucet and all. But these complaints aside, bathroom comfort is a tiny price to pay for the ability to travel to some of the coolest places I’ve ever seen.

I’ve spent most of the real estate of this letter/blog talking about both sides of the spectrum. But the truth is, the positive has mostly outweighed the negative. There are so many awesome aspects of the countries I’ve visited, which I didn’t even mention because I don’t think I can sum them up in a single paragraph: the music, the nature, and, most importantly, the people. So if you guys can give up spinach and broccoli for a few weeks, and don’t mind dealing dealing with sub-par restrooms for a little while, I promise you this: South America is absolutely incredible. Get yourselves down here, stat.

Mwah!

Caroline